Color is a huge component of a diamond’s identity. As one of the 4Cs used in grading diamonds, the color of diamonds (or lack thereof) can significantly impact their value. For clear (or non-colored) diamonds graded on a scale that values transparency, nearing colorless is the goal. However, there’s a whole world of fancy colored diamonds at the other end of the spectrum, where bold, vibrant colors are celebrated for their intensity and rarity. Let’s explore the world of diamond color, from zero to vivid.
What is Diamond Color?
In clear diamonds:
It is extremely rare for a diamond to be flawless. Most diamonds contain some impurities, such as other elements present during the diamond's formation. These impurities can cause light to interact differently within the diamond, giving off a colorful hue, which is considered the diamond's color. This hue isn’t always noticeable to the naked eye, so experts use a 10x magnification loupe to ensure the color is rated correctly. Here, among clear diamonds, the lack of color is desired.
In fancy colored diamonds:
The grading of fancy colored diamond color is a bit different in that the presence of colors is welcomed. From deep, captivating yellows or pinks to mystical blues and greens, diamonds can come in a range of unique and valuable hues.
Similar to clear diamonds, the color present in fancy colored diamonds can be caused by the presence of other elements. For example, boron’s presence in a diamond absorbs the red and yellow color portions of the light spectrum, emitting blue light and giving us blue diamonds. Damage to a diamond, which can be caused by shifting plate tectonics within the Earth, can cause atoms within the diamond to shift, causing light to be absorbed and transmitted differently, as is the case with rare red diamonds.
What is the Color Grading Process?
For clear diamonds, the color grading process involves meticulous examination under controlled conditions to determine a stone's position on the color scale. Here's a breakdown of the key steps:
- Preparation: The diamond is thoroughly cleaned to remove any surface dirt or oils that might affect its color perception.
- Lighting and viewing environment: The grading takes place under controlled lighting, mimicking natural daylight without any color bias. A specific viewing angle is set to ensure consistency in color evaluation.
- Masterstone comparison: Trained gemologists compare the diamond to a set of masterstones. These masterstones are a series of diamonds with established color grades, ranging from colorless (D) to light yellow or brown (Z) on the GIA scale. The position of the diamond within the masterstone set determines its final color grade.
- Multiple graders: Most labs have several graders evaluate the diamond independently for accuracy. If there's any discrepancy, a senior gemologist might re-evaluate the stone to reach a final consensus.
NOTE: The process above applies to non-colored diamonds. Fancy colored diamonds, like pinks or blues, are evaluated differently, focusing on their color's specific hue, tone and saturation (read more below about this). It's important to remember that color perception can vary slightly between individuals. The controlled environment and multiple graders help minimize this subjectivity.
Colors of Diamonds
Now that you know how color is viewed in the world of diamonds, let’s take a closer look at the rating scales used to grade diamond color.
Colorless to faintly colorless scale
As alluded to above, when it comes to diamond color, it’s more often about the absence of color than the presence. The Gemological Institute of America’s (GIA) color grading scale, referred to as the “D-to-Z scale,” ranges from D (colorless) graded diamonds to Z (light yellow or brown) graded diamonds. The less color present in a diamond, the higher the rating. As you move down the alphabet and the concentration of impurities increases, the diamond's color becomes more apparent, and its grade moves towards the lower end of the scale (closer to Z). These color distinctions can be subtle, especially in the higher grades (D-F), and often require a trained eye to detect. Even a faint color can affect a diamond's value. Here is how the color grades are categorized:
- Colorless: Diamonds whose color has been graded as a D, E or F are considered “colorless” diamonds.
- Near colorless: Diamonds with a color grade of G, H, I or J are considered “near colorless” diamonds.
- Faint color: Diamonds with a K, L or M color grade.
- Very light: Diamonds with a color grade of N-Z are considered "very light" or "light colored" diamonds. These are not fancy colored diamonds and are among the most affordable diamonds, with their hue often visible to the naked eye.
Fancy colored diamonds
Forget D-to-Z colorless ratings. When it comes to fancy colored diamonds, the grading system celebrates the presence of color! Unlike colorless diamonds, where less color is better, vibrant hues make fancy colored diamonds special.
These fancy colored diamonds aren’t graded using the GIA color scale. Instead, a scale specifically for fancy colored diamonds is used, which grades these diamonds based on their hue (the primary color of the diamond), saturation, (the intensity or vividness) and tone (the lightness or darkness) of the color.
These attributes are combined to determine the overall color grade, which is described using terms like Faint, Very Light, Light, Fancy Light, Fancy Intense, Fancy Vivid, Fancy Dark, and Fancy Deep.
Tips for Choosing a Diamond Color
For some, it may be as easy as selecting whatever diamond color catches their eye. Others may feel more comfortable taking their time to consider the following:
- Prioritize color based on your budget. Colorless diamonds (D, E, F) are typically the most expensive. Near-colorless diamonds (G, H, I, J) often appear that way to the naked eye and offer better value. Due to their rarity, fancy-colored diamonds are generally more expensive than their colorless counterparts. The intensity and purity of the color, as well as the diamond's carat weight, will also impact the value.
- Consider the diamond's setting and cut. The color of the metal setting and the diamond's cut can influence how color is perceived. A yellow gold setting might mask slight color variations in the diamond while a platinum setting may highlight them.
- Consider the diamond's size. Larger diamonds tend to show color more prominently. If you're purchasing a larger diamond, opting for a higher color grade might be preferable.
- Seek professional advice. Consulting with a qualified gemologist can offer valuable insights tailored to your preferences and budget. They can help you understand the nuances of diamond color and recommend options that best match your criteria.
3 Colorful Facts About Colorful Diamonds
If you simply can’t get enough info on colored diamonds, here are three more tidbits just for you:
- What is the rarest color of diamond? The rarest color diamond is a fancy red diamond, with fewer than 20-30 existing worldwide. Why? They are extremely uncommon due to the specific conditions required for their formation and are typically much smaller than colorless diamonds.
- What is the most common color of diamond? The most common diamond color is a very light yellow or brown. Why? The element nitrogen is abundantly found in the Earth's mantle, where diamonds are formed. When nitrogen atoms replace some of the carbon atoms in the diamond's structure, they affect the way light interacts with the stone, resulting in a yellowish tint.
- How many colors of diamonds are there? While diamond colors fall on a spectrum of endless hues and shades, there are 12 base categories that colored diamonds can fit into: red, yellow, orange, green, blue, pink, purple, brown, violet, gray, black and white.
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