Hearing the words “French cut diamonds” might evoke visuals of chic Parisian women dripping in diamond jewels as sparkly as the Eiffel Tower! But what exactly is a French cut diamond, and why would someone want one? Let this guide introduce you to everything you need to know about French cut diamonds (which, FYI, aren’t only cut in France anymore!).
What is a French Cut Diamond?
Ooh la la, mon chéri! Ton diamant est magnifique! (Translation: Ooh la la, my dear! Your diamond is magnificent!)
A French cut diamond is a type of diamond known for its sharp, angular edges and unique faceting pattern. The top part of the diamond, called the table, is typically flat and either square or rectangular (but not always!). The table is surrounded by angled facets that create a step-like appearance. These larger facets lead down to a pointed tip at the bottom of the stone.
Unlike round brilliant or princess cuts with many smaller facets, French cuts have fewer, larger facets, giving them a unique play of light. While cuts like round brilliants shimmer more sporadically, with light seeming to flash in every direction, French cuts have a more uniform, consistent shimmer with angular flashes of light grouped together, often referred to as “blocky” light. This makes the play of light in French cuts appear more structured and less spontaneous. Also, the step faceting of French cuts can be less uniform than modern step cuts, giving each stone individuality and charm.
The History Behind the French Cut Diamond
French cuts hold an early place in the evolution of diamond cuts. It’s almost hard to picture a world where only a few diamond cuts were available. However, that was the diamond landscape in the 16th century, when French cut diamonds hit the scene. In the 16th century, diamonds were cut only in the table cut style, with a flat top and an uncut bottom, resulting in less brilliance than today's diamond cuts. The French cut advanced diamond cutting by adding angled facets on both the table and pavilion, resulting in a more defined sparkle. This new cut quickly became popular in France—especially among the elites.
French cut diamonds, however, weren’t just used in jewelry. They brought their unique sparkle to items like pocket watches, cigarette boxes and other decorative accessories. As new, different diamond cuts emerged, French cut diamonds waned in popularity, only to rise again in the 1920s and 1930s when their sharp, geometric facets and clean lines perfectly fit the bold, symmetrical Art Deco style of those decades.
What Makes French Cut Diamonds Unique?
For those thinking, “Wait. French cut diamonds sound just like step-cut diamonds,” you’re not wrong. But the terms “French cut” and “step-cut” aren’t quite interchangeable. The term "step-cut" includes emerald and baguette cuts, which have parallel, step-like facets. French cut refers to a specific type of step-cut—often square or rectangular — specifically associated with vintage design and settings.
French Cut Diamond Shapes to Choose
Selecting this diamond cut isn’t as simple as saying, “One French cut diamond, s'il vous plait (please)!" There is another decision to make—most notably about the diamond's shape. Here are some common French cut diamond shapes, along with a couple unique options to consider.
Square French Cut Diamonds
Square French cut diamonds feature a flat, square table surrounded by nine smooth, flat facets. The sides of a square French cut diamond form triangles that extend down to a pointed tip. While they may not sparkle like modern cuts, the soft, warm charm of square French cut diamonds can be quite stunning. This clean, structured look is perfect for vintage-inspired settings.
Rectangle French Cut Diamonds
Rectangular French cuts have sharp, elongated edges, a flat, rectangular top, and angled facets that give the gemstone a distinct geometric, vintage look. These facets taper down to a point at the bottom, emphasizing its bold, structured appearance. This cut is perfect for anyone who loves a sophisticated look with a little old-world charm.
Octagon French Cut Diamonds
Octagonal French cuts have eight sides (as the name suggests) and a flat, octagonal table surrounded by step-like facets. The facets, again, taper toward a pointed bottom, creating that refined vintage look, making this a more unique take for those who want something both classic and unusual.
Trapezoidal French Cut Diamonds
Even more unique French cuts can be found, including trapezoidal-shaped French cut diamonds. These cuts, as the name suggests, have four sides: two parallel and two slanted, and are often used as side stones in certain settings or as part of one-of-a-kind designs.
Hexagonal French Cut Diamonds
H4: Hexagonal French cuts, while rarer, are sometimes used in high-end or custom jewelry. The six sides of a hexagonal French cut can give a diamond a more distinct, angular look compared to traditional square or rectangular shapes. While still less brilliant than other popular cuts, this shape allows light to reflect in a unique way, creating a more distinct play of light compared to square or rectangle French cut diamonds.
Types of French Cut Diamonds to Choose
Once you’ve selected the shape you desire for your French cut diamond, there’s one last thing to decide: the type of French cut diamond, as not all French cut diamonds are the same! Read on to learn more about the three types of French cut diamonds available.
Recycled French Cut Diamonds
Recycled French cut diamonds are made from repurposed stones, typically baguettes or princess cuts, that have been re-cut into the French cut shape. Most French cuts today are recycled as this process allows jewelers to reuse existing diamonds rather than sourcing new raw diamonds, making it a more sustainable option.
However, these recycled diamonds may not exhibit the distinctive 'blocky' light play typical of traditional French cuts, as their original facets and shape can alter how light is reflected. For instance, if a French cut diamond is re-cut from one with a deeper table, the light may reflect differently than it does in a traditional French cut. Additionally, the re-cutting process often results in a loss of carat weight as the original cut is transformed into its new shape.
Antique French Cut Diamonds
Antique French cut diamonds refer to original, vintage stones cut using traditional techniques, often with a more intricate and artistic facet arrangement. These diamonds typically feature sharper angles, a deeper table and a less uniform faceting pattern than modern cuts. They have a distinctive, classic elegance and are sought after for their historical value and unique beauty.
French Cut Side Diamonds
French cut side diamonds are smaller, often square or rectangular diamonds, used as accent stones alongside larger diamonds. These side diamonds feature the same sharp, angular facets and step-cut style as traditional French cut diamonds, providing a cohesive, vintage look. Their geometric design and subtle sparkle complement the main stone without overshadowing it.
Is a French Cut Diamond Right for Me?
If you’re looking for a diamond cut that’s a bit more unique with a timeless, subtle beauty (especially for an engagement ring!), a French cut diamond ring might be right for you. Consider the following:
Your Style Preference
French cut diamonds have a distinct vintage or Art Deco vibe, making them ideal for those who love retro or antique jewelry. Unlike brilliant-cut diamonds, French cut diamonds have fewer facets and offer a more subtle, refined shine. If you prefer a sophisticated, less flashy sparkle, this cut could be a great fit.
Focus on Clarity
The step-cut style of French cut diamonds highlights clarity more than brilliance. Considering the 4Cs of diamond grading, if your top priority is exceptional clarity showcasing the stone's purity, the French cut might be the way to go.
Durable Cuts
The angular, structured nature of French cut diamonds makes them reasonably durable. However, if you lead an active lifestyle or want a diamond cut that is less prone to damage, consider a more rounded shape like a brilliant cut, which is less likely to catch on things.
Size and Proportion
French cut diamonds, especially in square or rectangular shapes, can sometimes appear smaller than their round counterparts of the same carat weight. Make sure to consider the diamond’s dimensions and shape to ensure it will have the desired presence on your finger or as a statement piece.
Insure Your Diamond Ring with Jewelers Mutual
Whether you’re swooning over the vintage vibes of a French cut diamond or just loving its unique “blocky” shimmer, one thing’s for sure: this beauty deserves to be protected! Protect your French cut (or any cut!) diamond with a personal jewelry insurance policy from Jewelers Mutual. Individuals looking for jewelry insurance often think insuring their jewelry through a homeowners insurance policy is the best option. While home insurance companies may be experts at insuring homes, jewelry insurance companies are experts at insuring jewelry. Check your rate from Jewelers Mutual today by clicking the button below.
